Manual Transmission Clutch Started To Slip

Do I need New Clutch

I have a manual transmission. Lately the clutch has started to slip. Does that mean I need a new clutch?

Its not necessary,but yes if the vehicle is driven more miles and clutch is not replaced since long then replacing the clutch will help to take care of the problem.

It depends. If your clutch has low miles on it (40,000 or less), chances are the slippage is due to one of two things: oil contamination or a misadjusted clutch linkage. If your clutch has a lot of miles on it (60,000 or more), chances are it's worn out and you need to replace it.

Manual transmission clutch slips after 20 minuets of driving

If the clutch is slipping right from the start or after an hour(doesn't matter), the clutch is no good.
My thought is that its not actually the clutch disc thats no good but that the pressure plate is defective. If you've had the clutch replaced recently...Take it back...!!! You should be completely under warranty...

the clutch operates properly after turn the adjusting rod.
You asked who left it loose, Chance are that it was adjusted when the clutch was replaced..

But if  there is a freeplay problem.
If the clutch freeplay is changing after the car heats up, I'd recommend flushing the brake fluid out of the clutch system before you replace any other parts.

Pure DOT3 brake fluid has very minimal expansion until the fluid hits its boiling point. 400-460 degrees..
If the fluid has been slightly contaminated with water, the expansion rate is much higher and could cause your freeplay to change....


To rule out oil contamination as a possible cause of slippage, check under the rear of the engine and the bellhousing for oil leaks. If you see oil on the oil pan or bellhousing, the rear main oil seal is probably leaking. Other leak points include manifold and valve cover gaskets at the back of the engine, and the transmission input shaft seal.

 If you've got an oil leak, don't replace the clutch until you've fixed the leak. Once the clutch linings have been contaminated by oil, there's no way to clean them. Replacing the clutch disk is the only way to restore proper clutch operation.

98 dodge ram 3500: manual transmission CLUTCH SLIP,SMELL.

I have a 98 dodge ram 3500 manual transmission and it slip under a load smells like the clutch or is it the transmission

Its hard to describe the smell in writing but a pretty noticeable smell can occur if the clutch is beginning to slip. If you are experiencing a slip while accelerating or under a load and you have a smell, then most likely bad clutch disc. A manual trans will not slip. they either lose a gear or grind bad or make terrible noises when bad. I lean to failing clutch by your description

The only way a manual trans can smell? is with fluid leak but will not slip in any way

If you don't have a leak, check the linkage adjustment. Most cars with a cable linkage have an automatic adjusting mechanism that's supposed to maintain proper clearances. If anything, the cable would be too loose rather than too tight. But if someone has been playing around with the linkage adjustment, they may have gotten it too tight. The same goes for vehicles with hydraulic linkages. There's no way this type of linkage can cause slippage unless it is misadjusted by someone.

Manual Transmission Clutch Slips In Gear

I have a 5-speed manual transmission truck and when trying to put it in first and third gear it slips out when the clutch pedal is released. It does this several times before it will stay in gear. If I force it sometimes it grinds.

This is an internal transmission problem. Your 3rd gear slider is not locking into it's system. To repair this the 3rd gear slider, synchronizer , and 3rd drive gear would have to be replaced. To replace these parts the transmission would have to be removed and disassembled.

 That leaves the clutch itself. Slippage can be caused by two things: worn facings or loss of spring tension in the pressure plate. Unless the clutch really has been abused or has a lot of miles on it, it's unlikely the pressure plate is weak. Normal wear reduces the thickness of the facings on the clutch disk, which in turn reduces the clamping force the pressure plate can apply to squeeze the disk against the flywheel. Replacing the clutch disk should cure the problem.

Chevy Blazer slipping clutch plate 

95 blazer, automatic, highway driving uphill causes loss of drive train, as if the transmission disengages, if I let up on the gas it reengages. If acts like a slipping clutch plate on a manual transmission. I do not notice a problem unless accelerating or climbing a hill. Is this a problem with a transmission modulator perhaps?

This has a 4l60e transmission...it has no modulator..you can change the filter and hope for the best...but..the trans is burned up and will need to be rebuilt.

Even so, the clutch and flywheel should be carefully inspected when the parts are removed. If the pressure plate is worn or damaged, you'll need to replace that, too. Most experts recommend having the flywheel refaced to restore the friction surface. You can probably get by without refacing the flywheel -- but only if the flywheel is flat, smooth, clean and uncracked. Any grooves, heat discoloration, cracking or other damage would call for resurfacing or replacing the flywheel.

Nissan Clutch Burned

Is there a problem with the clutch and flywheel with alot of Nissan's . I am 62 I have always driven a manual transmission . I have been told the clutch is burned out with only 13000 miles on a 2008 Frontier . Does anyone have some advice , I really do not want to pay the 1400 dollars for repair.


The frontier trucks are not bad we only see the clutches go bad from customers that are not good with a stick shift and burn them up by slipping the clutch, most manual transmissions with clutch are this way, if you slip the clutch it will get hot and damage them , so if you can drive a stick shift you will have no problems with it , they are a good truck .

clutch/tranny problem..manual transmission..master cylinder

Diagnose clutch/tranny problem?

Hi, Just bought an 85 Westfalia with manual transmission. Had a new "clutch kit" and (clutch) master cylinder installed a few months ago. 

Now, intermittently, when i shift into reverse or first, it can be difficult, and then when i get the shifter in place, i hear what sounds like partially-engaged gears spinning - then as i release the clutch that sound goes away and it's into gear fine.

No problem once in gear - and only gives this symptom intermittently (3/4 times?). took it back to where put in the clutch, and he re-bled the system and says it sounds like a tranny problem, so have a transmission shop check it out. I have an appointment for that, but i'd like to know more going in... any help?

Based on your description and since bleeding the system did not solve the problem, I suspect a transmission problem is your trouble.

Because it is intermittent, I doubt it is anything serious. it sounds like you have 'lazy' synchronizers on your first and reverse gears. Before doing any expensive transmission repair, I would simply change the fluid in the transmission. I would use 1 qt of ATF and then fill with the appropriate gear oil. This will often free up sticky synchros and give you extra life in the gear box.

Also, these Vanagons are known for worn out shifter bushings, that could cause some problems. Another thing the transmission shop will likely check is the transmission mounts. If they are worn the alignment of the shifter can be compromised and cause difficulty shifting into low gears.

You might also try shifting into 2nd before moving into reverse or 1st. Sometimes this will give the synchronizers the opportunity to function properly.

Yes, it may be lazy synchronizers causing your problem. 

Automatic transmission fluid is basically a highly refined, high detergent, 5W oil. When added to a manual gear box, it helps thin the heavy 80W-90 and clean gummed up parts in the transmission. It is an old school mechanic trick that works well in many cases.

It may take 500-1,000 miles to notice a difference, but if it gets better, you are on the way to fixing the transmission without tearing it apart. 

Alternatively, you can simply run a thinner oil in the transmission. I have had good results using Shell Rotella 15W-40 in manual transmissions. It is a lot thinner than the 80W-90, but offers enough viscosity to protect the gears and allow the transmission to function properly.

Volvo Manual Transmission Clutch Slippage

I have a Volvo XC 90 2003 model with I am told a GM4T65ev-GT gearbox on a 2.9 engine it is losing drive similar to a slipping clutch would be on a manual transmission, is this more likely to be a gearbox issue than an electronic one

That problem on xc90 6 cylinder is bad gearbox.At our car repair garage we see many customers coming with same issue many problems with gear boxes you need to check for fault codes it is possible that you can fix the problem with software update to the ecu but most the time gearbox is bad the xc90 new gearboxes are much better when you replace it.

The common reasons for clutch to slip is the clutches on transmission get worn out like on manual transmission or the springs and bands inside trans just don't hold and car will slip also one thing that also takes out that trans is coolant leak from radiator small amounts off coolant mix oil in trans thru the radiator and when they mix it takes out trans out , also on left wheel if you take out the center bolt for the axle is behind the Volvo center cap on the wheel if you get oil leaking out that you axle has failed and the grease mixed with trans oil taking trans out also , what you have on your car regular gm transmission is not Volvo gm made it for Volvo but with very poor results.

Torq converter is operated by fluid clutches are hard clutch inside transmission.

Dodge: manual transmission will not go in Gear

Manual transmission dodge caliber won't go into gear with the clutch fully depressed when 

when cold. after it's been running on the road for 30 min it will change but not smoothly. can't find any leaks in the system. never any drips. brakes work fine. 1 master cylinder for both clutch and brakes. how do you determine which part is bad? I'm almost certain it's a hydraulic issue.

This is most likley a faulty pilot bearing , check to be sure the throw out bearing is pushing the presure plate . if the throw Out bearing is working properly then the next most likely cause is a sticky or seized up pilot bearing . There is a possibility of a faulty clutch disk which will give off pieces and get stuck between the pressure plate in the disc but this would not usually get better when it warms up.

it just started this a couple of days ago. you have to put it in gear before you start it. then you can take off using the clutch. it does try to move when you start it though but just barely. you can tell the clutch is spongey when it's cold. but it does fine once it's been driven long enough to get hot. It says dot 3 brake fluid in the owners manual but whats in the master cylinder looks too thick. but the brakes do not seem to be affected. I haven't worked on any thing that the 2 systems both use the same reservoi. also it says in the manual that it will be stiff when changing gears until it warms up. so I went with that but it is far beyond stiff now. I'm the equipment manager for a construction company so I've worked on a wide variaty of things from heavy equipment to a-models. there's no haynes or chilton book on this car. i just don't want to mis-diagnose it. everything is to expensive

for that.

I have a few of the hydraulic cylinders on these for similar problems.

I just wanted to make sure the pressure plate is working, they do go bad sometimes.

The clutch cylinder and brake are fed off the same reservoir, but we get them separately from chrysler. Dot 3 fluid also.

Here is some info, and a picture of the system.

The clutch hydraulic system is responsible for engaging and disengaging the clutch. Depressing the clutch pedal develops fluid pressure in the clutch master cylinder. This pressure is transmitted to the integral release bearing which is in contact with the pressure plate diaphragm spring. As additional force is applied, the bearing depresses the diaphragm spring fingers inward on the fulcrums. The action moves the pressure plate rearward, relieving clamping force on the clutch disc.

The typical clutch hydraulic system consists of a clutch master cylinder (4) Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) and an interconnecting fluid line (2). Clutch hydraulic fluid is supplied by the brake system via the brake master cylinder reservoir (1). The clutch pedal pushrod (3) is non-adjustable.

HOW TO BLEED CLUTCH?

Here's the steps for manual bleeding.

MANUAL BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

NOTE:

An assistant is required to perform this procedure

1.	Verify fluid level in clutch/brake cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2.	Raise vehicle on hoist.

NOTE:

The container must be positioned at a lower level than the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder

3.	Remove the dust cap from the bleed port on the clutch slave cylinder and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into a suitable container.

4.	Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder.

5.	Have the assistant press down and hold the clutch pedal until it reaches the floor.

NOTE:

Do not allow clutch/brake fluid reservoir to run dry while fluid exits bleed port. If the reservoir runs dry during this procedure, it must be refilled. and this step must be repeated.

NOTE:

Ensure the assistant does not release the clutch pedal from the floor while the bleed port on the clutch slave cylinder is open. Otherwise, air will enter the clutch hydraulic circuit.

6.	Open the bleed port on the clutch slave cylinder enough to allow hydraulic fluid to drain. Any air in the system will escape at this time.

7.	Close the bleed port on the clutch slave cylinder, and have the assistant release the clutch pedal to the full up position.

8.	Repeat steps 5 through 7 at least 15 times or until air bubbles are no longer present in the clutch hydraulic fluid.

9.	Slowly actuate the clutch pedal 10 times between the full up and pedal stop position.

10.

Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If the clutch pedal feels fine and the transaxle can be easily shifted from neutral to any gear, the clutch is operating correctly. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

11.	Disconnect the hose from the bleed port on the clutch master cylinder and install the dust cap.

12.	Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.