New Clutch Slips After Installation

Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinders

Clutch Slips
If the clutch is cable operated then you might need to slacken the cable. Clutches are the opposite of brakes, as they wear brakes get slacker but clutches tighten up. If there's insufficient slack in the cable then this will prevent the clutch from fully engaging.

 If it was slipping because you rode it, the plates would be glazed. Good plates would means that they did the job wrong. A greasy flywheel maybe. The pedal is stiffer because they used stronger springs when they did the job. If it's mechanical linkage, they might have left it too tight.

poor job of replacing clutch assembly ,if  only replaced the disc and not resurfaced the flywheel and replace the pressure plate. Once they get glazed form slipping a new disc doesn't help very much.
Look at your old receipt for the work, it should list the parts:
clutch disc
pressure plate
pilot bearing
throw-out bearing
pressure plate
job-out...resurface flywheel
If they didn't do all that it was a half-vast job.



Following a new clutch installation, there is nothing worse than experiencing slipping or release problems. Many times installers even begin to believe that the new clutch kit is defective. This is not correct, in most cases! The majority of the time, a simple, quick adjustment will alleviate any problems. Most Japanese/Korean imports utilize an adjustable clutch master cylinder. When a new clutch kit is installed, the master cylinder needs to be re-adjusted to work properly with this new kit and avoid release and slipping problems.



Following the steps listed below demonstrate the proper way to adjust the master cylinder and avoid potential release problems with the new clutch:

Preventing No Release:

1. Verify that hydraulic fluid is clean and that correct fluid was used.

2. Locate the master cylinder push rod that attaches to the clutch pedal.

3. Using the picture (Fig. 2) as reference, extend the push rod to allow for more throw. After the rod has been extended, tighten the locking nut.

Caution: DO NOT extend the rod out too far. Extending too far out can block the compensating port in the master cylinder.

Preventing Slipping:

1. Verify that hydraulic fluid is clean and that correct fluid was used.

2. Locate the master cylinder push rod that attaches to the clutch pedal.

3. Using the picture (Fig. 3) as reference, shorten the push rod
to allow for less throw. After the rod has been shortened, tighten the locking nut.

Note: In a slipping situation the rod is too long, causing the compensating port to be blocked off not allowing fluid to return to the fluid reservoir.

After all I conclude I think it might be because we didn't resurface flywheel. It's bad because it can lead to a glazed clutch which will cause slipping.
The throwout bearing clip is some what loose, that's okay as long as you don't have like major major movement.

Reading through your posting it struck me as odd that the flywheel was sanded rather than machined. It is normal practice to machine the surface perfectly smooth with a diamond embedded grinding wheel with precision machinery. If the surface is not perfectly smooth, it could easily be slipping because the surface area of actual contact is not sufficient. Also, was pressure plate replaced at the same time? It should have been, especially if the clutch was slipping before replacement. excessive heat can cause the spring of the pressure plate to be reduced.

Did they flush the clutch fluid? If it is saturated with water (normal for hydraulic fluid to absorb moisture) it can feel sponge when hot.

There were three points all together. The clutch fluid can be addressed without removing or replacing any components. The pressure plate can be verified by the work order or speaking with the Technician. And then there is the flywheel.

For Manual Clutch System:--

Open your hood. You will see the large end (on the lower left here) that goes through part of the transmission case. Grab the largest part of the cable, and pull it straight up, and release it. This will re-adjust the cable. If that does not work, and all of the clutch friction parts (disc, and pressure plate) were installed correctly, then replace the cable, and readjust as I suggested

But it turns out my clicking axle that I've had for about 2 months finally caved in on me in the wheel hub assembly.