How Often Should Transmission Fluid Be Replaced?

Do You Really Need to Change the Transmission Fluid?

But Car Owners Ask This Question:

How often should the automatic transmission fluid be changed?

When exactly it is a good time to change your automatic transmission fluid

Most car owner's manuals say it isn't necessary. Yeah, right. That's why transmission shops are making a fortune replacing burned out automatic transmissions. 

For optimum protection, change the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles (unless you have a new vehicle that is filled with Dexron III ATF which is supposed to be good for 100,000 miles). 

Fresh automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is bright red and has a distinct petroleum smell. If Your dipstick shows a low level, is the color of institutional linoleum and smells very dirty. Your transmission fluid is badly in need of changing, and the tranny may already be damaged.

Proper Checking of the Automatic Transmission Fluid Level

The automatic transmission level should be checked regularly. Keep the vehicle on level ground with the parking brake.

Check fluid as follows:

1. Make sure the transmission fluid temperature is between 158-176°F, use scan tool/GDS to verify temperature if needed. Checking the fluid level before it has reached operating temperature will result in false readings. Warm-up time can vary depending on ambient temperature - see sample graph below.

2. Place the selector lever in P (Park) or N (Neutral) and engine is at idle speed.

3. Confirm the fluid level is in the "HOT" range on the dipstick. If the fluid level is lower, add the specified fluid as required.

NOTE: When I say hot,, you need to drive for say 15-20 minutes various speeds then immediately check level.

Why ATF Wears Out?

An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads. 

A brown liquid coming form the overflow pipe on radiator expansion tank

Yes it could be Transmission Cooler leak.

You may want to check the Transmission Fluid color & Level

If it is above correct Level or dark color, there could be internal leak & you can also verify by having a Pressure Test performed by a Reputable Shop or Radiator Shop.

approx 1 hour labor

Depending on how severe the liquid is, If there is no evidence of Overheating or Leaks

Check Dip Stick to see if:

The ATF is muddy.

The ATF smells strange or unusual

It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins. 

How To know if my transmission is going bad?

Signs of a transmission failure are poor shift quality. It may take too long to shift or the RPM's will go up and the car will not increase in speed. You may experience noise coming from the transmission either a whine or clunk noise. The transmission may have slow engagement or not want to move at all in drive or reverse. The transmission fluid condition can be checked by looking at the fluid on the dip stick. If it is brown or black it needs replaced. If it smells burnt the transmission has been slipping. Some cars do not have a dipstick. If this is the case you will need to have it checked by a shop. The check engine or service engine light will come on for transmission problems. On Fords the OD light will flash. As for leaks look for spots on the garage floor or put card board under the engine and transmission and check for spots in the morning.

At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission.

The ONLY way you would have coolant and transmission fluid mixed would be if there was a leak in the lines that run through the radiator.
The radiator acts as a transmission cooler in Honda/Acuras, and the transmission fluid lines run through the bottom of the radiator to keep the trans fluid cool for better operations.

Yes, this is the typical signs of a failing transmission. There are reed valves and seals within the transmission the direct the flow and hold pressure to engage/disengage the clutch packs. Over time, and expecially the v6 Honda/Acura transmissions they are notorious to fail. As the temperature of the fluid rises the seals expand, not providing adequate pressure to engage the clutches.


If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses. At higher temperatures the transmission begins to slip, which only aggravates overheating even more. Eventually the clutches burn out and the transmission calls it quits. The only way to repair the damage now is with an overhaul -- a job which can easily run upwards of $1500 on a late model front-wheel drive car or minivan. 

As a rule of thumb, every 20 degree increase in operating temperature above 175 degrees F. cuts the life of the fluid in half!

Like engine oil, transmission fluid gets dirty over time. This is due to normal wear of transmission clutches and bands, and the thermal breakdown of the fluid. Changing the transmission fluid is a normal maintenance procedure, and really only needs to be done every 30,000 miles. Now one thing that can cause the fluid to get dirty prematurely, is if you do a lot of towing with your vehicle. If you don't tow with it, then have it changed every 30,000 miles and you should be ok,

At 195 degrees F., for instance, fluid life is reduced to 50,000 miles. At 220 degrees, which is commonly encountered in many transmissions, the fluid is only good for about 25,000 miles. At 240 degrees F., the fluid won't go much over 10,000 miles. Add another 20 degrees, and life expectancy drops to 5,000 miles. Go to 295 or 300 degrees F., and 1,000 to 1,500 miles is about all you'll get before the transmission burns up.

Can dirty transmission fluid make the transmission slip
Usually tranny slipping is a sign of internal tranny wear. Sometimes if the fluid is bad it can cause a slippage so fresh fluid may help.If it does not its rebuild or replacement time.

HONDA TRANSMISSION FLUID REPLACEMENT:
How do i replace all of the dirty transmission fluid on a 91 Honda accord

On a Honda they were only designed for a drain and refill which doesn't get all of the fluid out. You have to do it three times to get most of the fluid out of it. What you can do though instead of drain/fill three times is to go to a shop that has a transmission fluid ex-changer machine. That machine will drain completely and fill completely while the engine is running. That method is the best and what we use at the dealer.

Dexron 3 is fine for your car. I don't wait too long I like to empty hot because the dirt and stuff is suspended in the oil hot and cold it settles out. It takes 3 quarts usually.


If you think this is propaganda put forth by the suppliers of ATF to sell more fluid, think again. According to the Automatic Transmission Re-builders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced. 

 On most vehicles, the automatic transmission fluid is cooled by a small heat exchanger inside the bottom or end tank of the radiator. Hot ATF from the transmission circulates through a short loop of pipe and is thus "cooled." Cooling is a relative term here, however, because the radiator itself may be running at anywhere from 180 to 220 degrees F.! 

Tests have shown that the typical original equipment oil cooler is marginal at best. ATF that enters the radiator cooler at 300 degrees F. leaves at 240 to 270 degrees F., which is only a 10 to 20% drop in temperature, and is nowhere good enough for extended fluid life.

TRANSMISSION FLUSH:
Is a transmission flush necessary?

When the transmission runs, all the metal and gears in the transmission heat up. As the materials in the transmission warm, the friction causes small metal particles and debris to be worn from the gears. These metal particles are then carried by the flow of your transmission fluid through the transmission and eventually caught in the transmission filter.

Now most dealers recommend that you check the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles and for transmission maintenance purposes change the fluid every 30,000 miles.
When servicing the transmission, there are actually two types of services. One is a transmission flush, the other is a transmission fluid and filter change.
The transmission flush process (also called a fluid exchange) uses a high powered machine to evacuate the old fluid from your transmission and pump in new fluid. While this process is effective in renewing the fluid, the shop does not actually change the fluid filter (where all the metal particles have been caught) and since the process requires high pressure to be used to remove the fluid from the transmission, the particles that have been in the transmission filter can be loosened during this process and become lodged in working components of the transmission causing transmission failure. This process is not recommended by the car manufacturer for this reason.

Any number of things can push ATF temperatures beyond the system's ability to maintain safe limits: towing a trailer, mountain driving, driving at sustained high speeds during hot weather, stop-and-go driving in city traffic, "rocking" an automatic transmission from drive to reverse to free a tire from mud or snow, etc. Problems in the cooling system itself such as a low coolant level, a defective cooling fan, fan clutch, thermostat or water pump, an obstructed radiator, etc., will also diminish ATF cooling efficiency. In some cases, transmission overheating can even lead to engine coolant overheating! That's why there's a good demand for auxiliary add-on transmission coolers. 

The transmission fluid and filter replacement process is a higher cost then the fluid exchange process, but much more effective as well. A transmission fluid and filter replacement consists of draining the transmission fluid from the transmission, then removing the transmission pan and gasket, transmission filter is then removed and replaced, a new transmission gasket is installed, the transmission pan is re-installed and the new fluid is installed in the car. Some may argue that with this process, some fluid may be left in the torque converter and this can potentially cause damage to the transmission, however, part of the process while performing this service is removing the fluid from the torque converter. This type of service is always recommended by the manufacturer.
Just remember that wherever you take your car to have this service performed, that the fluid recommended from the manufacturer for your make and model is put into your car. Do not let a shop put another type of fluid (along with an additive) into your transmission. This could cause transmission failure and void your warranty if you have one.

Its Suggested To Get Transmission Flush Done At Professional Car Repair Service Center;

The fluid needs to be serviced on a regular basis to prevent transmission problems. The goal is to flush the fluid before it gets dirty and starts causing varnish buildup and is not lubricating correctly. We recommend a flush every 30,000 to 60,000 miles depending on the specific vehicle and the customers driving habits. If a flush causes a problem, it was either done incorrectly, or a result of the failing transmission to begin with.

Auxiliary Cooling

An auxiliary transmission fluid cooler is easy to install and can substantially lower fluid operating temperatures. The plate/fin type cooler is somewhat more efficient than the tube and fin design, but either can lower fluid temperatures anywhere from 80 to 140 degrees when installed in series with the stock unit. Typical cooling efficiency run in the 35 to 50% range. 

Why Transmission Fluid Cooler Is Necessary?
Each year, hundreds of thousands of automatic transmissions fail and the majority of them are due to overheating of the fluid.  Most of this overheating is due to today’s vehicles being engineered with downsized engines and transmissions in an effort to maximize fuel economy.  We demand the same or better performance from these smaller, more efficient powertrains, therefore they must work harder than ever before.

For the same reason, the addition of an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler isn’t just necessary for those who tow trailers anymore.  Many manufacturers are now also recommending the addition of a transmission cooler if you carry extra passengers or cargo (ie – vacation, car-pool), drive in stop-and-go traffic, drive in hot or very cold weather, or climb steep inclines.  This would likely be 90% of your customers, just as the above statistic would indicate.

CHEVY TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES
How do you change the transmission cooler lines?

On your car they make two types of line for the trans. One is a screw on and the other is a quick connect, Part of the line is just a high pressure flex hose and part of it is a steel tube. If you want to replace the part that has the steel line included, it is pretty much a matter of unbolting and removing. You may need to remove any other components that inter-fear. 

Transmission Fluid Auxiliary Cooler Inlet and Outlet Pipe Replacement

Due to the extra strain placed on today’s vehicles, automatic transmissions require a lot from a transmission fluid.  The fluid must lubricate the moving parts, clean the interior surfaces, protect against corrosion, transmit energy, and most of all, cool the transmission.

When an automatic transmission’s temperature exceeds 200F, the transmission fluid is pushed to its limits. Overheated transmission fluid will break down causing seals to crack, moving parts to clash, and leaks to occur.  At Mister Transmission, we offer our own brand of high-quality transmission fluid coolers (also available at Canadian Tire) and the expertise to install them properly.

Removal Procedure

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose clamps.
3. Remove the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe from the transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe.
   
   
4. Remove the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe bracket from the lower radiator support.
   
   
5. Remove the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe fittings from the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe.

Installation Procedure

Notice: Allow sufficient clearance around the transaxle oil cooler pipes and around the hoses to prevent damage or wear which may cause fluid loss.

Important: The correct thread engagement is critical. Crossthreaded fittings can achieve proper tightness and still leak.
1. Install the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe.
   Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe fittings to the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler.
   Tighten
   Tighten the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe fittings to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
   
   
   
3. Install the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe to the transaxle oil cooler hose and pipe.
4. Install the auxiliary transaxle oil cooler hose clamps.
5. Lower the vehicle.
   Notice: Do NOT overfill the transaxle. The overfilling of the transaxle causes foaming, loss of fluid, shift complaints, and possible damage to the transaxle.
6. Adjust the fluid level.
7. Inspect for proper completion of the repairs.
8. Inspect for fluid leaks.

Transmission Fluid Cooler Hose Replacement (With Quick Connect Fittings)

Use only double-wrapped and use only brazed steel pipe meeting the GM specification 123M or equivalent if replacement of the transaxle oil cooler pipes are required. Ensure the pipe is double-flared, as required.

Removal Procedure

Notice: Allow sufficient clearance around the transaxle oil cooler pipes and around the hoses to prevent damage or wear which may cause fluid loss.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Position the drain pan.
3. Remove the transaxle oil cooler hoses from the pipes.
   
4. Disconnect the transaxle oil cooler pipes from the fittings at the radiator.
   Important: Perform the following procedures when removing the retaining ring and transaxle oil cooler pipe from the quick connect fitting on the transmission.
5. Pull the plastic cap back from the quick connect fitting and down along the transaxle oil cooler pipe about two inches.
   
   
6. Using a bent-tip screwdriver, pull on one of the open ends of the retaining ring in order to rotate the retaining ring around the quick connect fitting until the retaining ring is out of position and can be completely removed.
   
   
7. Remove the retaining ring from the quick connect fitting.
8. Discard the retaining ring.
   
   
9. Pull the transaxle oil cooler pipe straight out from the quick connect fitting.
10. Remove the retaining ring (E-clip) securing the transaxle oil cooler pipe to the quick connect in order to remove the remaining transaxle oil cooler pipes from the remaining quick connect fittings.
11. Remove the transaxle oil cooler pipe clip bolt.
12. Remove the transaxle oil cooler pipes from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

There are many areas under the hood of a modern automobile where you could install a transmission cooler, but there’s really only one location where you will get the full 100% cooling efficiency.  You want to install the transmission fluid cooler in front of all other heat exchangers (ie – radiator, a/c condenser, etc) and in an area with good incoming airflow.

For every 20F degree drop in transmission fluid temperature, you can expect to extend the fluid and equipment life, thereby extending the life of the vehicle.  That’s why it is very important to have a quality transmission cooler, and more importantly, to have it professionally installed.

1. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipes.
   Important:

   •	Do not reuse any of the existing retaining rings that were removed from the existing quick connect fittings. All retaining rings being installed must be new.

   •	Ensure the following procedures are performed when installing the new retaining rings onto the fittings.

   
   
2. Install a new retaining ring (E-clip) into the quick connect fitting using the following procedure:
   
   
3. Hook one of the open ends of retaining ring in one of the slots in the quick connect fitting.
   
   
4. Rotate the retaining ring around the fitting until the retaining ring is positioned with all three ears through the three slots on the fitting.
   
   
5. Do not install the new retaining ring onto the fitting by pushing the retaining ring.
   
   
6. Ensure that the three retaining ring ears are seen from inside the fitting and that the retaining ring moves freely in the fitting slots.
7. Install the new retaining ring (E-clip) into the remaining quick connect fittings.
   Notice: Ensure that the cooler line being installed has a plastic cap on each end that connects to a quick connect fitting. If no plastic cap exists, or the plastic cap is damaged, obtain a new plastic cap and position on to the cooler line prior to the cooler line installation.
   
   
   
8. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipes to the vehicle.
   
   
9. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipe into the quick connect fitting.
10. Insert the transaxle oil cooler pipe end into the quick connect fitting until a click is either heard or felt.
    
    
11. Do not use the plastic cap on the transaxle oil cooler pipe in order to install the transaxle oil cooler pipe into the fitting.
12. Pull back sharply on the transaxle oil cooler pipe in order to ensure that the transaxle oil cooler pipe is fastened into the quick connect fitting.
    
    
13. Position (snap) the plastic cap onto the fitting. Do not manually depress the retaining ring when installing the plastic cap onto the quick connect fitting.
14. Ensure that the plastic cap is fully seated against the fitting.
     
15. Ensure that no gap is present between the cap and the fitting.
    
    
16. Ensure that the yellow identification band on the tube is hidden within the quick connect fitting. A hidden yellow identification band indicates proper joint seating.
    
    
17. Do not install the transaxle oil cooler pipe end into the fitting incorrectly.
18. If you cannot position the plastic cap against the fitting, remove the retaining ring from the quick connect fitting per Step 7 of the transaxle oil cooler pipe removal procedure. Check the retaining ring and the transaxle oil cooler pipe end in order to ensure neither is bent. Replace the transaxle oil cooler pipe or the retaining ring if necessary, and install per Step 2 of the transaxle oil cooler pipe installation procedure.
    Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
19. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipe clip bolt.
    Tighten
    Tighten the transaxle oil cooler pipe clip bolt to 4 N·m (27 lb in).
20. Install the transaxle oil cooler hoses to the pipes.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Notice: Do NOT overfill the transaxle. The overfilling of the transaxle causes foaming, loss of fluid, shift complaints, and possible damage to the transaxle.
23. Adjust the fluid level.
24. Inspect for proper completion of the repairs.
25. Inspect for fluid leaks.

Transmission Fluid Cooler Hose Replacement (With Treaded Fittings)

Use only double-wrapped and use only brazed steel pipe meeting the GM specification 123M or equivalent if replacement of the transaxle oil cooler pipes are required. Ensure the pipe is double-flared.

Removal Procedure

Notice: Allow sufficient clearance around the transaxle oil cooler pipes and around the hoses to prevent damage or wear which may cause fluid loss.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Position the drain pan.
3. Remove the transaxle oil cooler hoses from the pipes. 
   
4. Remove the transaxle oil cooler pipe fittings at the radiator.
5. Remove the transaxle oil cooler pipe clip bolt.
6. Remove the transaxle oil cooler pipes.

Installation Procedure

Important: The correct thread engagement is critical. Crossthreaded fittings can achieve proper tightness value and still leak.
1. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipes.
   Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipe clip bolt.
   Tighten
   Tighten the transaxle oil cooler pipe clip bolt to 4 N·m (27 lb in).
3. Install the transaxle oil cooler pipe fittings at the radiator.
   Tighten
   Tighten the transaxle oil cooler pipe fittings to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
4. Install the transaxle oil cooler hoses to the pipes.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Notice: Do NOT overfill the transaxle. The overfilling of the transaxle causes foaming, loss of fluid, shift complaints, and possible damage to the transaxle.
7. Adjust the fluid level.
8. Inspect for proper completion of the repairs.
9. Inspect for fluid leaks.

Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD LT tips for changing trans cooler

This is extensive & a pretty tough job.Please get it done by professional.

If your vehicle shows sign of overheating again n again.Then get this job done quickly for longer life of your vehicle.

Because overheating is the main cause of automatic transmission failure, some people choose to install an auxiliary oil cooler for automatic transmission fluid.

Most automatic cars come standard with a separate heat exchanger for the transmission oil just below the radiator. Given the high temperatures you can find in a radiator, often just under the boiling point of water, a short cycle through this heat exchanger doesn't reduce the temperature of the automatic transmission fluid all that much – only by about 10-20%. Still, with few exceptions, this does the job when you’re only doing everyday driving.

However, if you plan to tow a trailer, boat or caravan, it may be worthwhile having an auxiliary transmission fluid cooler installed.

This is because an automatic transmission takes extra stress when towing, and this raises the temperature in the transmission. Even at just a few degrees hotter than the temperature it was designed for, transmission fluid can become less viscous – not doing its job of lubrication as well as it should and reducing the lifespan of the auto trans.

Similar conditions can develop when you drive in mountains, in heavy traffic or at high speed on hot days.

An auxiliary cooler can keep transmission fluid at optimum operating temperature for longer. Typically, these coolers reduce the temperature by between a third and half from the time the fluid enters the cooler till the time it flows back into the transmission.

Transmission Fluid Cooler Hose/Pipe Replacement

1. Remove the radiator grille. 
   
2. Remove the transmission fluid cooler hose from the auxiliary oil cooler (1). Remove the air cleaner assembly.
   
   
3. Remove the transmission fluid cooler hose from the radiator (1). Raise the vehicle. .
4. Remove the front bumper.
5. Remove the engine protection shield. Remove the charge air cooler outlet hose. Remove the transmission fluid cooler hose from the radiator (2). 10. Disconnect Transmission Cooler Lines from clips, if equipped.
   
   
6. Remove the cooling lines from the transmission (1). 
   
7. Remove the cooling lines from the transmission (2). Remove the oil cooling line (1) that runs from the transmission to auxiliary oil cooler out the front of the vehicle.

1. Install the transmission oil cooler line (1) that runs from the transmission to auxiliary oil cooler out the front of the vehicle.
2. Install the transmission oil cooler line (2) that runs from the transmission to auxiliary oil cooler out the front of the vehicle.
3. Connect the cooling lines to the transmission (1).
4. Connect Transmission Cooler Lines into clips, if equipped.
   
   
5. Install the transmission fluid cooler hose to the radiator (2). Install the charge air cooler outlet hose.
6. Install the engine protection shield. Install the front bumper.
7. Lower the vehicle.
   
   
8. Install the transmission fluid cooler hose to the radiator (1). Install the air cleaner assembly. 
   
9. Install the transmission fluid cooler hose to the auxiliary oil cooler (1). Install the radiator grille. .

Atf Fluid Types

What kind of automatic transmission fluid should you use in your transmission? The type specified in your owner's manual or printed on the transmission dipstick. 

JAGUAR S-TYPE TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE:
I have a 2005 Jag s type where is the automatic transmission fluid dip stick and do you check while the engine is running, and where do you put it in?

There is no transmission fluid dipstick as those transmissions are sealed for life. We do not service them and will only check or take a fluid sample when there is a problem. The fluid check procedure is to have the engine running and warm the trans fluid to 30-50 degrees C. Remove the 8mm Allen fill plug on the passenger side rear of the trans case and once fluid flow out it is full. This will also be the place to add fluid.

Transmission fluid for Yale 
What kind of transmission fluid does my yale (model #?) n549892 take in?

The older Yales used Dexron ATF fluid. Take a longer wire, coat hanger will do , and reach deeper into the dipstick hole, if the fluid is red in color, it is the Dexron as used in GM vehicles. If it looks thicker and clear, use 30wt engine oil.


For older Ford automatics and certain imports, Type "F" is usually required. Most Fords since the 1980s require "Mercon" fluid, which is Ford's equivalent of Dexron II.

For General Motors, Chrysler and other imports, Dexron II is usually specified.

NOTE: Some newer vehicles with electronically-controlled transmissions require Dexron IIe or Dexron III fluid. GM says its new long-life Dexron III fluid can be substituted for Dexron II in older vehicle applications.

CAUTION: Using the wrong type of fluid can affect the way the transmission shifts and feels. Using Type F fluid in an application that calls for Dexron II may make the transmission shift too harshly. Using Dexron II in a transmission that requires Type F may allow the transmission to slip under heavy load, which can accelerate clutch wear.

Changing The Fluid

It's a messy job because there's no drain plug to change the fluid, but you can do it yourself if you're so inclined. To change the fluid, you have to get under your vehicle and remove the pan from the bottom of the transmission.

TOYOTA TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE

How to change transmission fluid & filter for my Toyota Tacoma prerunner V6 2006?

CAUTION: When working with FIPG material, you must observe the following guidelines.

• Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old FIPG material from the gasket surfaces.
• Thoroughly clean all components to remove all loose material.
• Clean both sealing surfaces with a non-residue solvent.
• Apply FIPG in an approximately 1 mm (0.04 inch) wide bead along the sealing surface.
• Parts must be assembled within 10 minutes of application. Otherwise, the FIPG material must be removed and reapplied.

1. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
2. DRAIN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

• 1. Remove the drain plug, gasket and drain ATF
  2. Install a new gasket and drain plug. Torque: 28 Nm (285 kgf-cm, 21 ft. lbs.)

1. REMOVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY NOTICE: Some fluid will remain in the oil pan.

• 1. Remove the 20 bolts, gasket and oil pan sub-assembly

the particles in the pan.

• • 1. Remove the magnets and use them to collect steel particles. Carefully inspect the foreign matter and particles in the pan and on the magnets to anticipate the type of wear you will find in the transmission.

Steel (magnetic)	bearing, gear and clutch plate wear
Brass (non-magnetic)

1. REMOVE VALVE BODY OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY

• 1. Remove the 4 bolts, oil strainer and O-ring. NOTICE: Be careful as some fluid will come out of the oil strainer

1. INSTALL VALVE BODY OIL STRAINER ASSEMBLY

• 1. Install anew O-ring and the oil strainer with the 4 bolts. Torque: 10 Nm (102 kgf-cm, 7 ft. lbs.)

1. INSTALL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY HINT: Remove all packing material and be careful not to drop oil on the contact surfaces of the transmission case and oil pan.

• 1. Install a new gasket and the oil pan sub-assembly

• 1. Install the oil pan with the 20 bolts. Torque: 4.4 Nm (45 kgf-cm, 39 inch lbs.)

1. CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL Torque: 3.9 Nm (40 kgf-cm, 35 inch lbs.)
2. PERFORM INITIALIZATION
3. ADD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

• 1. Install the oil pan with the 20 bolts. Torque: 4.4 Nm (45 kgf-cm, 39 inch lbs.)

1. CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL Torque: 3.9 Nm (40 kgf-cm, 35 inch lbs.)
2. PERFORM INITIALIZATION
3. ADD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

For Toyota Sienna TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE

You will need to remove the pan on the bottom of the transmission and then remove the filter.Most parts houses have the filter kit which has the filter and the pan gasket.You will need to get the correct fluid from Toyota which is called type T IV.The drain and refill calls for 3.7 quarts.

When you loosen the pan, fluid will start to dribble out in all directions so you need a fairly large catch pan. You should also know that removing the pan doesn't drain all of the old fluid out of the transmission. Approximately a third of the old fluid will still be in the torque converter. There's no drain plug on the converter so you're really only doing a partial fluid change. Even so, a partial fluid change is better than no fluid change at all.

The few bolts are a bit difficult to get to on the passenger side by the frame rail/cradle. You can jack the trans up slight to stretch the rubber in the trans mount or disconnect the bolts on the bottom. I use a 10 mm swivel 1/4 drive socket to get them out. There is no drain to get the converter empty. Pumping the fluid out with trans cooler line will pump fluid out of the pan but there will always be fluid in the converter. If you do this there is a risk of damaging the seals and bushings. If you leave the filter off overnight you can get an additional quart to drip out of the system.

A typical fluid change will require anywhere from 3 to 6 quarts of ATF depending on the application, a new filter and a pan gasket (or RTV sealer) for the transmission pan. The pan must be thoroughly cleaned prior to reinstallation. This includes wiping all fluid residue from the inside of the pan and scraping all traces of the old gasket from the pan's sealing surface. Don't forget to clean the mounting flange on the transmission, too. 

When the new filter is installed, be sure it is mounted in the exact same position as the original and that any O-rings or other gaskets have been properly positioned prior to tightening the bolts. Then tighten the bolts to the manufacturer's recommended specs.

When refilling the transmission with fresh fluid, be careful not to allow any dirt or debris to enter the dipstick tube. Using a long-neck funnel with a built-in screen is recommended.

CAUTION: Do not overfill the transmission. Too much fluid can cause the fluid to foam, which in turn can lead to erratic shifting, oil starvation and transmission damage. Too much fluid may also force ATF to leak past the transmission seals.

Volvo s60 TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE

How to change the auto transmission fluid in a volvo s60

Oil, changing
Note: Use only ATF oil, Volvo  (1 liter container),(4 liter container) may be used
Warning! Avoid skin contact with transmission fluid. the oil may be very hot if the car has just been driven
Conditions

The oil should be replaced only in the two following instances:
Where diagnostic trouble code (DTC) TCM 0042 and TCM 0046 are stored, in which case the diagnostic function activates the warning lamp in the following circumstances. The transmission control module (TCM) receives data about the operating temperature of the transmission fluid while the car is being driven. TCM 0042 is stored after an accumulated amount of time.
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) TCM 0046 is stored if the transmission fluid temperature exceeds 150°C for more then two minutes.
In cars used in continuous taxi service or used for towing a trailer or caravan for most of its mileage, the oil must be replaced at a service interval of 75000km ±5000km. This is to conform to the regular service program
Warning! Avoid skin contact with transmission fluid. the oil may be very hot if the car has just been driven
Draining

Remove

the splash guard under engine
oil plug. Drain oil from the transmission.
Installing oil plug
Use a new gasket
Tighten plug. Tighten to 40 Nm
Install the protective cover
Draining Oil

Remove the return hose on the control system cover.
Install a plastic plug in the connection on the cover.
Detach the return hose in the cooler. Align the hose upwards and reconnect it to the cooler.
Install a transparent plastic hose on the oil return hose connection.
Place a container beneath the hose to catch the oil.
Refilling
Apply parking brake and move gear selector lever to position P
Fill with approximately 2 liters of oil.
Start the engine and let it idle
Turn the engine off when air bubbles start to become visible in the hose.
Add approximately 2 liters of oil.
Start the engine again and let it idle
Turn the engine off when air bubbles start to become visible in the hose.
Remove the hose from the oil cooler hose. Detach it from the connection to the cooler. Install the hose in the normal position on the cooler and the transmission.
Further filling
Fill with approximately 2 liters of oil.
Set parking brake
Start engine and let it idle. Move the gear selector through all positions, stopping in each position for 4-5 seconds.
Checking the oil level
Add half a quart at a time until the dipstick shows full. The transmission really isn't full yet because the dipstick should be checked when the fluid is hot, and the engine is idling with the gear selector in Park. So start the engine, drive the vehicle around the block, then recheck the fluid level while the engine is idling and add fluid as needed until the dipstick reads full.